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Need a space to unwind and relax? Turning an old shed into a spa wonderland is not that far-fetched! Space could easily be converted into an area for your hot tub or even turned into a sauna. If you have a hot tub already, it would be easy to use a shed to build a protective covering around it. If you do not have a hot tub, you can start from scratch and turn the outdoor shed into the luxury spa of your dreams!
There are two 4×4 posts at the front of the shed that support the front half of the roof. Secure the bottom of the posts to the deck frame with metal post anchors. Tie the top of the posts together with the second (top) 2×4 plates that run over the top of the walls. Miter the ends of the 2×4 plates over the posts and attach them with screws (Photo above).
Sheds have become multipurpose, must-have buildings that are competing with pergolas and gazebos as your next backyard project. Pictures on social media only grab people's desires more. Before going any further, do your research. Figure out what you need it for and why, and whether you will built the shed yourself, or hire a pro. Check with your local planning department to comply with codes and guidelines. Determine if the shed will mirror the architectural features of your home--always a good idea. Assess your budget, materials needed, and the time it will take to complete the project.
Next, you will need to insert wooden shuttering or formwork around the edges of your excavated area. This will need to be made from 6"x1" timber and screwed or nailed into position. If need be, wooden pegged to form a square, level solid formwork to hold back the hardcore and concrete (in the next step). The reason for the original excavation to be 2" bigger all the way around is to take into consideration the wooden frame, you will now have an internal area of 8"x6". If you decide to use thicker timber you will need to take this into consideration at the stringing out stage. 
You should then lay approximately 3” (75mm) of concrete. Concrete can be produced using either bags of dry mixed concrete with small amounts of water added at a time, or making a mixture of ‘all-in’ ballast, cement and water. For this second alternative, it is mixed in the ratio of 1 part of cement for 5 parts ‘all-in’ ballast. ‘All-in’ ballast is sold in 40kg bags at most building merchants or DIY stores (Note approx 1.25 will be required to produce around 1 cubic foot of concrete). Do not allow the mix to become too wet as this will weaken the concrete.
People are often a little dubious about the capabilities of our plastic shed bases, just because they’re plastic. However, they’re stronger than the majority of other bases available and are certainly a whole lot better looking. These base panels can withstand weights of up to 420 tonnes, meaning not only can they take the weight of a shed that’s filled with everything from garden furniture to bikes and barbecues, they can also withstand the weight of a HGV and pretty much anything else you throw at it!
Dig trenches about 12 in. wide and about 10 in. below where you want the bottom edge of the joists to end up. Pour 4 in. of gravel into the trenches and level it off. Make sure the gravel in all three trenches is at the same height. Then cut the 6x6s to 12 ft. long and set them in the trenches. Measure to make sure  the 6x6s are parallel. Then measure diagonally from the ends of the outside 6x6s to make certain they’re square. The diagonal measurements should be equal. Finally, level the 6x6s (Photo above and Figure B in project pdfs).
When you nail on the siding, make sure it overhangs the framing on each side by 3-1/2 in. and that you’ve trimmed off the top corner to follow the slope of the angled top plate (Photo 2). Attach the siding with 2-in. galvanized or stainless steel ring-shank siding nails placed 8 in. apart along studs and 6 in. apart along the edges of the sheets. You’ll have to nail blocking between the studs to support the top edge of the siding and the Z-flashing.
The idea for this has been in my head for a while (and on a paper for a shorter while), but let’s face it: I need more DIY space — especially for tools and garden storage. The one-car garage I have is packed full all the time with the mower, gardening materials, woodworking tools, paint, and more. Even though I try as best I can to keep it organized(ish… meh) by cleaning it out once a year, that still means I spend a lot of time looking for the things I need in a very tight space (you would think losing things in a smaller space would be less frequent, but… nope).

Constructing a get rid of may well seem to be an overwhelming occupation to some do-it-yourself newcomers. But produce a stage, excellent, difficult base and the rest actually must be straightforward. Creating the basis for any backyard garden building is easy for an person to accomplish. However we suggest an further man or girl is on-site through the creating of your get rid of to assist with lifting and placing roofing and wall construction sections. Preparing authorization is typically not essential for any mass made backyard garden developing getting said that, if you reside inside of preservation area or even the creating could intrude on the neighbour’s back garden, you may wish to look for advice from next door neighbours or local authority or council in advance of building.

The composition and design of our plastic shed base range may seem a little strange at first. Each panel is secular in design with the intention of certain panels being filled to add further support to the shed above. Typically, with other types of shed base, because they’re solid, a layer of air is trapped between the shed base and the bottom of the shed. This can quickly become warm and moist and, if left, could cause a severe damp problem that’ll leave your shed rotting from the base up.


We assembled each layer with pocket screws before gluing the two layers together, but if you don’t own a pocket hole setup, you could simply screw through the overlapping boards instead. Complete the door frame. Then cut the 4 x 8-ft. grooved plywood to fit the lower recess, and cut a piece of 1/4-in. acrylic sheet to fit the upper recess. Secure the plywood and acrylic sheet with 1/2-in. x 1/2-in. moldings nailed to the inside. Sand the edges of the door flush.
While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy & effectiveness of the information displayed on this website, The Ugly Duckling House is for entertainment purposes only. All tutorials and demonstrations are not intended to be professional advice (nor substitute as such), and I make no guarantees as to the procedures and information here. Creating with my suggested methods, materials, and tools is under your own risk. Please ensure you are following proper guidelines with anything used, and seek professional advice if you don't know how to do something! Read my complete disclosure here.
The fact that they’re lightweight also makes them really quick and simple to install. Each panel features an interlocking mechanism on each side which attaches in seconds to the other panels. Most people can expect to lay around 100 m2 of these plastic pavers in just an hour, so there’s no need for building your shed base to take up your entire day.
From what I’ve gleaned, the trend started in the UK with Community Gardens, where everyone is given an allotment to grow fresh fruit and vegetables. Oftentimes, these allotments have sheds for storing gardening tools and what not. Naturally, folks started enjoying a quick beer or cocktail in these sheds, and eventually, a few people gathered, mini happy hours casually formed, and from there, the natural evolution of bar sheds began.
Once the concrete has cured, set a post on top of the footer. Use the intersection of the mason's string to set the post square. Making sure the post is plumb — and holding it straight — add concrete around the sides and cover with soil. Brace each post to keep it in position while the concrete sets. Watch our video How Do I Set a Post in Concrete? for an illustration of bracing.

This outdoor structure is a little bit of both: you have a small storage space to the right and a cozy space to the left where you can place a few chairs and watch the rain pour on your garden or look at the stars, since part of the roof is made of glass. The disadvantage is that it’s not going to be cheap to build considering it’s a pretty specific design.
I’ve always wanted to learn more about woodworking. Learn framing. Be better at picturing the insides of the walls I’m always messing with. Overall, I want to also increase my knowledge on the kinds of tools I don’t really use as much for interior DIYs (like a roofing nailer?!?! BRING IT ON!). I learned a little by volunteering in Habitat for Humanity events, but I know that there is still so much more fun stuff I could be doing and learning. So, after months of trying to think of where best to put it, what it might look like, the hoops I might have to jump through to get it, I’m going for it! I am building it from scratch (not using a shed-building kit), and I will share as I go, warts and all (and I’m sure, a few mistakes). 😃 😃 😃

This whimsical garden shed looks like something you would see in a “Lord of the Rings” movie. With its almost twisting structure sitting in the middle of this forest landscape, I am almost surprised I do not see a tiny Hobbit poking about with a pipe in hand. It is a truly gorgeous setup and this just goes to show how versatile these garden sheds can be.


By searching online you can find some free shed plans that are decent. Most often though these plans will be geared towards more experienced builders and they will not be very detailed. If you are a first time builder look for plans you can understand, even if it means paying a little. Use plans that contain a material list and plenty of details if this is your first time. Most free plans available are not as detailed with the building steps, so free is not always a good idea. If you go to the top of this page I have provided a list of some of the best plans from reputable websites.


Step # one: Decide exactly where you can placement your garden get rid of in the the best possible location, allow adequate length from shrubs or fencing for convenient accessibility to every facet. Use pegs and wire to attract out your basis, ensuring it is its 2 inches (five centimetres) greater than your garden drop. Lastly, determine diagonals to guarantee the region is square.

This small backyard shed is a minimalist approach to a larger storage facility. Its classic design serves both in function and as a great element to have in a backyard setting. The shed looks sleek, modern and interesting. It does not look like a standard storage shed, so if you were trying to disguise the shed as something else, this would be a great design to execute that.


This little cottage of dreams has an adorable story behind it. These crafters were in need of a workshop and noticed their neighbor getting rid of his small unattached garage, so they inquired about it, before getting some friends and transporting the whole structure to their backyard, where they gave it a complete makeover. Neighborly interactions, a helpful gang of friends, and a cute, flowery cottage? It's almost too good to be true!
1. Choose a location. You may have already completed this step but it’s good to put some thought into the location of your outdoor storage building. Check with your local township to make sure you follow setback guidelines. If installing next to a fence it’s a good idea to allow enough room between the shed and fence so that a person can squeeze through. Make sure the location can be accessed by your shed builder’s delivery equipment.
Stand the timber upright on its edge and push and pull it backwards and forwards across the frame while dragging it from one end to the other and this will level it roughly. Next, lift the board at both ends about 4 inches above the frame and tap it back down on the frame, moving up and down the frame as you do so. Try and tap together so both ends of the board hit the frame at the same time.
Set up a levelled formwork. This involves measuring, cutting and fitting timber to the shape of the base in order to contain the concrete. Check diagonal measurements to ensure the formwork is square and level as this will determine whether your shed base is 100% sturdy. Next, spread a layer ofwell-compactedd hardcore (all-in ballast or crushed gravel) and cover with a liberal amount of sand. This needs be well compacted and flattened down, preferably with a compacting tool or roller.
A Place to Grow recycles greenhouses to create she sheds, wine rooms, art studios, and meditation retreats. For a client in Los Osos, California, a shed is used as a sewing room and private escape. When designing studios and hobby sheds, allow room for shelving, storage, and workspace. Naturally, the space will need to be wired for proper lighting.
Generally, smaller sheds of up to 8×6 do not need a foundation. Small sheds can be rested on crushed stone with either treated wood foundations or concrete foundation blocks. Large sheds will need to have strong foundations. Considering Backyard Buildings smallest shed size is 8×8, all of our sheds will need a foundation setup prior to the arrival of one of our installers.

The best spot for a shed is level, well-drained ground close to where you work in your garden or yard. The location doesn’t need to be perfectly flat; the foundation design shown in the plans allows for adjustments to make the floor level. Small sheds require only a top-of-soil foundation, even in locations with freezing winter temperatures. Precast concrete deck blocks work perfectly for this.

Wood foundations are typically built using solid concrete leveling blocks which are 8” x 16” and no more than 2” high. Each block is arranged in evenly spaced rows by placing one in each corner and at each break. These concrete leveling blocks will support the floor. If you choose not to use concrete leveling blocks, we recommend using pressure treated lumber to support the wooden floor frame.
Dig trenches about 12 in. wide and about 10 in. below where you want the bottom edge of the joists to end up. Pour 4 in. of gravel into the trenches and level it off. Make sure the gravel in all three trenches is at the same height. Then cut the 6x6s to 12 ft. long and set them in the trenches. Measure to make sure  the 6x6s are parallel. Then measure diagonally from the ends of the outside 6x6s to make certain they’re square. The diagonal measurements should be equal. Finally, level the 6x6s (Photo above and Figure B in project pdfs).
It’s no surprise that most sheds are designed to be built with an on-grade foundation. This base is quick and easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and adaptable enough to accommodate all but the most severely sloping sites. In addition, the components are small and light enough to easily set into place and shift around, making it very easy to get everything square and level. Although it’s not technically a “permanent” foundation, an on-grade foundation, when properly built, will probably outlast the shed it supports.

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Before you cover the joists with the 4 x 8-ft. sheets of flooring, plumb and brace the 4×4 posts with diagonal 2x4s. Also stretch a string or mason’s line from front to back along the top edge of the outside joist to make sure the walls and joists  are straight. The attic floor needs to be square and have straight sides. If not, the rafters won’t fit correctly.


Have a particularly small outdoor garden area yet want to safely secure tools? Not a problem! Garden sheds and virtually come in all shapes and sizes. Deepening on the size of your particular garden, you may just need a smaller space to store important stuff in. In this garden shed idea, space is small enough to be intrusive into a yard space but effective enough to get the storage job done.
Figure G (in Additional Information below) shows details for the marking jig. Photo 12 shows how to use this setup to draw the curves for the window pieces. Next cut the side pieces (Figure F, in Additional Information below). Set the side pieces in place over the top of the header and mark the angled cuts (Photo 13). Finish the curved trim piece by first cutting the angles on each end, and then sawing the curves with a jigsaw and sanding them smooth. Use the marking jig to lay out the curved brace, too (Figure G, in Additional Information below).
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