For example, the last three sheds I built were trimmed with white PVC trim boards instead of painted cedar 1 x 4s. This new plastic lumber, which I used for the rake, fascia, frieze and corner boards, is impervious to bugs, warping, splitting or decay, and it never needs painting. Other low-maintenance options include: vinyl or aluminum windows, faux-slate roof shingles, fiberglass or steel doors, composite decking for steps, and fiber-cement siding. (I don't usually recommend aluminum or vinyl siding for sheds; neither material is rugged enough to survive the inevitable beating outbuildings take.)
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Not only can your shed blend with nature or even be made out of natural products. It can also be made out of the actual raw products nature provides. Wood is natural but it is often cut up. At the least it is debarked and cut so it fits together. However this shed is made of the products that are exactly the way nature gives it, namely in their original form. IDEA: Try building a shed from materials that you do not have to alter at all.
There are several ways to economize when building a shed: Install three-tab roof shingles instead of architectural shingles, or use grooved-plywood siding in place of cedar bevel siding. But don't ever skimp on the building materials used for the floor frame or plywood floor deck. I can't tell you how often I've walked into a shed and found the floor to be dangerously spongy. One building in particular had a floor so badly rotted it felt like one of those inflatable moonwalk attractions you see at carnivals.
This father and daughter duo turned a standard garden shed into a wonderfully magical space together. This shed has two levels, an upstairs and a downstairs area, so his daughter can move freely about the space and draw inspiration. This just goes to show how much can be done when you put your mind to it and have a bit of ingenuity. What a cool space!
Mark the position of the rafters along the beams at 16-inch centers and carefully nail them in place. We even went so far as to set each nailhead to firmly pinch the rafter down against the beam. We nailed the front fascia in place and moved on to the skip sheathing for the roofing. Note that two pieces of sheathing are nailed on at the peak and at the base. The rest are spaced evenly between them.
It's obvious that the designer who created simple shed designs like this one wanted to create an outdoor place to relax out of the sun and weather. The simple 2×4 framing and plywood sheathing add an interesting and low-cost touch. But, it’s the owner's use of a pair of sliding glass doors that make this shed so special. Here again, you could save money by sourcing many of the materials such as the doors from a local salvage dealer.
Ordering a prehung wood door like this from the lumberyard could cost as much as $1,000, but you can build one suitable for a shed at a fraction of the cost. We purchased clear pine at a home center and spent $120 for the boards. Photos 8 – 10 show how to build the door and mount it to a trim piece with hinges. The door consists of two layers of 3/4-in.-thick boards that overlap at the corners to add strength. Rip 1×6 boards to 4-1/2 in. on a table saw for the outside layer (Figure F, Additional Information below).
Crosscut the remaining joists and fasten them, as noted in the diagram, with joist hangers, joist hanger nails, 16d common nails, or 3½-inch deck screws. Crosscut the floor pieces and screw them to the long and short joists. Make yourself a small jig from scrap lumber to speed accurate spacing between each piece of flooring. Even better, make two. Place one at the front and another at the rear of each deck piece. Fasten the deck pieces with the jig in place. Lift the jigs out, position the next piece of decking, and repeat.
The toughest and most important part of building a shed is finding the right plans. Sure you can just start building without plans, but do you know how it will look when you are done? Or you can search for free plans, but are they designed right? What I recommend is finding plans, even if it means you have to pay a little. Make sure that sample plans are provided so you know what you are getting. Do not make a purchase just because they show lots of nice sheds but no sample of the actual plans you will be buying. Look for the following before you decide to purchase:
If you do not require a shed floor it would be advisable at this stage to add a damp proof membrane, this can be laid on top of the hardcore ready for the concrete. A concrete mix of 5 parts ballast and 1 part cement should now be mixed and poured into the area, enough concrete should be poured so that it is just proud of the formwork. It can now be tampered down level and flat using a straight piece of solid timber. The result should be a smooth level concrete base - the ultimate shed base.
This worked awesome. Build a 8x12ft greenhouse using these brackets. Be careful, the brackets are as sharp as a razor and will cut very easily, but it worked really well. Buy two, and 12ft 2x4s and 8fter's work great. Buy a deadblow hammer cause it takes a little persuasion since wood is never perfectly straight, but once you get the gist of it, you're on your way.
These LED rail lights are the perfect, cost-effective way to light up an outdoor space without lightening the wallet. Whether you need a ton of lights for your next garden shed bar party or just a few to light up your child’s playhouse, these lights are great because all they need to use to work is the actual sunlight. No need to worry about batteries or extension cords when it becomes known! They do all the work for you.
The roof truss can be built using 2x4 or 2x6 lumbers. There are different ways to build the truss, the most common is cutting out the rafters and assembling them using gussets. The easiest way to build the roof truss will be using plans. The other option will be to lay the 2x4’s or 2x6’s on the level floor set them how you want your roof and make a template. Once you are happy with the look of your template you can build the rest.
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This shed is outstanding because it is built of materials that are still close to their raw form. A wooden shed fits in better with nature. Vinyl sheds or buildings built of other materials, can be can be great for some situations. However for a natural environment wood is much better. First of all wood is a natural product. Secondly it fits better in a woodsy area. IDEA: Just to say you can do it, build a shed with 1) natural products and 2) products that are as much in their raw form as possible.
The shed we built rests on a foundation made up of 12 solid-concrete blocks. The 4 x 8 x 16-in. blocks are arranged in three rows spaced 59 in. apart. These blocks are typically set directly on the ground, but we put down a 4-in. bed of gravel first because our site occasionally receives groundwater. The gravel will keep the soil beneath the shed from eroding or becoming soggy.
the biggest problem I had was that the instructions I downloaded from the manufactures web site had a different cut list than the documents that came with the kits. I had already cut the lumber based on the downloaded list so I was dismayed to find that two of the lengths specified in the packaging were longer than the ones I cut from the downloaded plans. I did try assembling an arch with both specs, but nether of the lengths resulted in an arch that actually matched the frame. I wound up forcing things to fit and got the framing up, but it was much harder than it looked and you need at least three people to put it all together.
Why buy a greenhouse if you can make it yourself? Especially if it is much cheaper? A cool shed like this can be done very cheaply. The main materials needed are old replacement windows, an old door, a few pieces of wood for rafters, and some polycarbonate roofing sheets. IDEA: Rather than throwing away your old windows, door, and other materials, turn them into a greenhouse shed.
Hey guys, We have started our own pub shed here in East Texas called K&K Bear Cave We have been working on it less than 2 weeks and its AWESOME!! We still have a lot of things we are going to do but I have been researching this for quit some time. Here is our FACEBOOK page if you would like to take a look! https://www.facebook.com/KKBearCave Stop in and say Hi and you saw this post, would LOVE to hear from ya!
I have this vision of one on a 5’x10′ utility trailer, tables, chairs, umbrellas designed to fold & mount on the exterior walls for transport. “Quiet” generator with long cable for refrigeration & lighting. A frat house dream, a fishing hut supplement (even ice fishing), one shed serves my house or your house (not at the same time). Fun could be designing the shelving, storage, displays such that the glass wear won’t break but doesn’t have to be unpackaged for use/display…. I would call it Mo-Bar. Perfect it & sell design to Coleman… lanterns, stoves, and bars;-)
Each truss is made up of two 2 x 4 rafters and one 2 x 4 ceiling joist. The three boards are joined together with 1/2-in. plywood gussets. To speed up the assembly process, build all the trusses on the shed floor before erecting the walls. Start by cutting all the rafters to length with a 40° angle at one end of each. Cut 2 x 4s to 10 ft. long for the bottom chords of the trusses. Also, cut all of the plywood gussets.
Check with your local building department to see whether a permit is required. Also find out if there are rules about where your pub shed can be located on the lot. Take the Materials List (in the project pdfs below) with you to your favorite lumberyard or home center and go over the list with the salesperson to see what items you may have to order. Then set up a delivery so you’ll be ready to build the pub shed when your help arrives. A few days before you plan to dig, call 811 for instructions on how to locate buried utility lines. Now it’s time to start building your pub shed.
Next, frame the floor with 2x6s. Start by cutting the 12-ft.-long rim joists for the front and back and marking the joist locations. Cut the joists and nail them to the rim joists. When you’re done, square the joists (Photo above). Then use a taut string line or sight down the 12-ft. rim joist to make sure it’s straight. Then drive toenails through the joists into the 6x6s to hold the joists in place.
Complete the siding, then remove the toe-screws and move the wall aside to make room for constructing the opposite wall. Use the same chalk line template and process to build the opposite end wall. Figure C (in Additional Information below) shows framing details for the front wall. Mark the curves on the 2×10 header pieces using the trammel setup shown in Photo 12 and Figure G (in Additional Information below). Cut them with a jigsaw. When you’re done building the front and back walls, set them aside so you can use the platform to build the roof sections.