Using wooden pegs and string, mark out the desired base size adding 2" to each length, for example: for an 8x6 base you would need to string mark 8'2"x6'2". Measure from corner to corner to ensure the area marked out is square. The concrete base cna be level with the surrounding soil or raised above. If you require a level with the ground base you need to excavate the area to a depth of around 6" to allow for 3" of hardcore/sub-base and 3" of concrete. Level the area with a rake and remove the pegs and string.
This interesting cube-shaped building is definitely not a shed. Not the way the builder used slats on three sides to provide plenty of ventilation for those evening meals in the great outdoors. Note that the entire back wall is solid to help keep the weather out, you could add outdoor curtains to help block any excess breezes and keep out the rains. What a great way to create your own outdoor family room!
I am planning to build a 20 X 16 shed in my yard in Brandon, FL. I want to be able to pull my truck in to work on it at times. I will be putting it on a Wood deck platform. What it the best ideas for weight support for the 5K Lb. truck? IE: 2X6s, 2X8s what type f spacing is best and which direction should the joists be going in reference to the roll up door? And help would be appreciated.
This step is easier with two people. Start by measuring the length of the ceiling then cut the amount of straw cladding you need – allow a 5cm surplus. You will need two lengths. While one person holds the straw cladding in place the other can nail it in place. Hit the nail in until secure then hammer it at a 90-degree angle so it holds the straw cladding in place. Put nails in every 15-20 cm to secure.
Remember small amounts of water should be added at a time, and mixed into the concrete. Be careful as excessive amounts may make the cement too sloppy and it needs to stay reasonably dry. Spread the concrete evenly and slightly above the formwork. This can be then levelled off with a long straight edge of timber resting on the formwork. Use a sawing motion slowly over the entire surface of the freshly laid concrete.
Concrete requires 3” (7.5 cm) of compacted hardcore (all-in ballast or other crushed rubble/gravel) underneath the 3″ concrete layer. The base can be level with the ground or raised above it. If you want it to be level, excavate the top earth to 6” (15 cm), to allow for the hardcore layer and 3” (7.5 cm) of concrete. Level the area with a rake and spade and remove the pegs.
The next step is to install the 1-in. x 9-1/4-in. trim board that fits against the soffit and runs around the perimeter of the shed and porch. This wide trim board forms one side of the false beam that runs around the porch ceiling. Add a 2×4 frame to the underside of the porch ceiling to create the false beam. Then nail the grooved panels to the porch ceiling and cover the 2×4 false beam with trim (Photo above). You can install the corner boards at this stage, but the battens will have to wait until after you’ve built and installed the windows. Figures S – V show details for the siding and trim installation.
The amount of rainfall the UK is subjected to each year means that the ground is constantly trying to dry out. When a shed is placed directly onto grass or soil, as some people like to do, when it rains and ground becomes sodden, the shed (or anything heavy for that matter) will start to sink into the ground. This sinking is rarely even, as very often some areas of ground are considerably stronger, or more compacted, than others. This means that as soon as the shed starts to sink, it becomes uneven and, overtime, is left under immense pressure because of this strain.
This side shed is a great way to store simple stuff, such as the lawn mower or your garden tools. It almost blends into the scene with the toy beside it and the rich foliage next to it. It is unobtrusive but quite functional, as it will prevent so many tools from either rusting in the rain or being baked in the sun. Overall, these sheds can save you money since all of your garden essentials will be protected.
If you have a router, use a hinge-mortising bit (or straight bit) to cut the hinge recesses (Photo 10). Otherwise, use a sharp chisel. Screw the hinges to the door and trim. To hang the door, line up a temporary 2×4 with the bottom of the siding and screw it to the wall. Then rest the door on the 2×4 and drive 3-in. screws through the trim into the framing to hold the door in place (Photo 11). Finish the door installation by adding the top and side trim pieces.
Arch-top windows and a custom door give this shed a high-quality look that belies its low cost and simple construction. The panelized construction technique means you could build the parts in your garage on a rainy weekend and then haul them to the site for assembly. Modest finishes like OSB siding and composite trim and fiberglass shingles help keep the materials cost low. And you’ll save hundreds of dollars by providing your own labor to build the door and windows. The modular construction and wood platform foundation mean you can construct this shed almost anywhere, even on remote or sloping sites. In this article, we’ll show you the basics of how to build the shed and install the windows and doors.