The slanted roof of a modern house in the San Francisco Bay Area is echoed in this small wooden tool shed. Conceived by Astrid Gaiser Garden Design, the shed becomes an interesting part of the landscape design instead of something tucked or hidden in a corner or side yard. Gaiser even added a chalkboard for kids and adults to draw and write messages.
Garden sheds are very common and that’s because of their multiple functionalities. They can be used for storage for all the items you no longer have room for in your house but mostly for garden supplies and tools. Also, they commonly used for hobbies. They’re like a mini-home for all your collection items and memorabilia, like a sanctuary for personal items. Moreover, garden sheds also make great workshop spaces. And since their functionality varies from person to person and from type to type, so does their design.
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A garden shed can be strictly functional, but it can also be a decorative focal point around which you design your garden or yard. These plans will help you build a basic shed, but don’t stop there! To customize your shed, you could create a combination toolshed and greenhouse, put a martin house on top, or use part of the shed for a chicken coop or rabbit hutch. If you’re feeling even more adventurous, you could create a living roof of moss or succulent plants.
The fact that they’re lightweight also makes them really quick and simple to install. Each panel features an interlocking mechanism on each side which attaches in seconds to the other panels. Most people can expect to lay around 100 m2 of these plastic pavers in just an hour, so there’s no need for building your shed base to take up your entire day.
A 1964-built Eichler home was bought in original condition with vintage appliances, fixtures, and finishes. The new owners wanted to retain its iconic midcentury modern design, but requested that Gast Architects make some updates to create a calm, light-filled, and inviting home. Gast strived to preserve the signature finishes of the house while creating a larger, more modern kitchen, opening up the floor plan, and updating the master suite. The shed in the backyard repeats the lines of the main house, resembling a mini Eichler.
Simple shed designs like this one feature tongue and groove planks that are typically reserved for flooring or indoor paneling. The boards are designed to interlock along the long edges, making for an exceptionally sturdy structure. The best part is you can buy this type of lumber at your local discount hardware superstore in different lengths and a variety of different types of lumber.
We built inexpensive windows for the shed using plastic barn sash mounted in 1×4 pine frames (Photo above and Figure Q and R). Start by measuring the sash and building a 1×4 frame that’s 1/4 in. wider and taller than the sash. Cut 10-degree angles on the bottom of the sides to provide a sloping sill. Cut 1×2 stops to fit in the frame and position them to hold the sash flush with the outside edge of the 1×4 frame. Then attach galvanized screen door hinges to the frame, set the sash in place and drill holes for the fasteners. Since the plastic isn’t strong enough to hold wood screws, we drilled holes through the sash and attached the hinges with machine screws, washers and nuts.
In order to building a shed, depending on where you are located you may or may not be required to obtain a building permit. A building permit is required so a certified inspector by the town/city/municipality can inspect the construction of the shed to ensure it meets regulations for safety, spacial requirements, and visually. This information can be found by either visiting the town/city/municipality website or contacting the town/city/municipality by phone.
Omit the bird’s-mouth from four rafters and use these on the ends. Cut the 2x4s for the ridge and subfascia to length and mark the rafter positions on them. Line up the rafters with the marks and nail through the ridge and subfascia with 16d nails to secure them. When the roof frame is complete, line up the subfascia with the chalk line on the platform and tack it in three or four places with toe screws to hold the frame straight while you install the soffit.
This father and daughter duo turned a standard garden shed into a wonderfully magical space together. This shed has two levels, an upstairs and a downstairs area, so his daughter can move freely about the space and draw inspiration. This just goes to show how much can be done when you put your mind to it and have a bit of ingenuity. What a cool space!
After laying out the 12 blocks, use a straight 2 x 4 and a 4-ft. level to ensure that all the blocks are level. Shim up any low blocks with strips of asphalt roofing, cedar shingles or 2-in.-thick concrete patio block. Next, form each front and rear band joist by nailing a 2 x 6 to a 2 x 8 mudsill. Set the mudsills on top of the blocks running across the front and rear of the shed. Cut a third 2 x 8 mudsill to fit along the tops of the center row of foundation blocks.
Cut the sill piece and assemble the windows with pocket screws. Using a router with a 3/8-in. rabbet bit, rout a 3/8-in.-deep recess on the back of the window to receive the 1/4-in. Plexiglas acrylic sheet (Photo 14). Set the window frame, recessed side down, over a piece of acrylic sheet and trace the shape with a permanent marker. Cut the curve with a fine-tooth jigsaw blade and the straight sections with a fine-tooth blade in a table saw or circular saw.
In order to building a shed, depending on where you are located you may or may not be required to obtain a building permit. A building permit is required so a certified inspector by the town/city/municipality can inspect the construction of the shed to ensure it meets regulations for safety, spacial requirements, and visually. This information can be found by either visiting the town/city/municipality website or contacting the town/city/municipality by phone.

Although skids are often set directly on the ground, I prefer to lay them on a bed of gravel. The stone creates a very stable base that’s not likely to settle or wash away. Begin by laying the skids in position on the ground, then mark around each one using spray paint or flour sprinkled from a can. Move the skids out of the way, then use a flat shovel to remove the sod and about 2 in. of soil from the marked areas. Check the excavated areas to make sure they’re close to being level. If they’re not, remove a little more soil from the high spots. Next, add 3 in. to 4 in. of gravel. Compact the gravel with a hand tamper or gas-powered plate compactor, then replace the skids.
The post holes should be about 4 feet apart. Set up batter boards and mason's string to mark these points. The intersections of the string indicate the locations of a post corner. Use the 3-4-5 method described above to check for square at each intersection. Adjust the string along the batter boards as necessary and mark the location of the string on the batter boards.
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