I’ve looked into it, and reviewed the rules for what my county requires and also called the county’s code office to ask them questions. The main issue is whether or not the structure is considered “permanent” or not. I’ll get into that in more detail on a future post but you’re ABSOLUTELY RIGHT about checking to make sure you have everything you need before you start!
I have this vision of one on a 5’x10′ utility trailer, tables, chairs, umbrellas designed to fold & mount on the exterior walls for transport. “Quiet” generator with long cable for refrigeration & lighting. A frat house dream, a fishing hut supplement (even ice fishing), one shed serves my house or your house (not at the same time). Fun could be designing the shelving, storage, displays such that the glass wear won’t break but doesn’t have to be unpackaged for use/display…. I would call it Mo-Bar. Perfect it & sell design to Coleman… lanterns, stoves, and bars;-)
Start by marking the joist locations on the two side joists using Figure H (in project pdfs) as a guide. Then cut and install the joists (Photo above). Mark the joist locations on two rim joists and nail the rims to the top plate. Make sure they are set in 1-1/2 in. from the outside edge of the wall to allow space for the second rim joist. Attach the joists with screws or nails driven through the rim joists. Then add the second rim joist and install joist hangers on every joist.
The post holes should be about 4 feet apart. Set up batter boards and mason's string to mark these points. The intersections of the string indicate the locations of a post corner. Use the 3-4-5 method described above to check for square at each intersection. Adjust the string along the batter boards as necessary and mark the location of the string on the batter boards.
Using Figure C as a guide (in project pdfs below), chalk lines on the floor to indicate the inside edges of the walls. These lines provide a reference for straightening the bottom plate of the walls after the walls are standing. Cut the top and bottom wall plates and mark the stud locations on them (Figures D – G, also in project pdfs). Build the side walls (Photo above) of the pub shed. Then build and stand the front and back walls. Brace them temporarily.
This shed features plenty of glass to let the sun shine in. Note that it even has windows in the end gables for even more light. The use of both metal and clapboard siding gives this outdoor shed the look of a tiny home, which may help it blend into your backyard more easily. The double glass doors are perfect for letting in more cooling air or large items. This shed would make a great outdoor studio for the artist in the family.
A garden shed can be strictly functional, but it can also be a decorative focal point around which you design your garden or yard. These plans will help you build a basic shed, but don’t stop there! To customize your shed, you could create a combination toolshed and greenhouse, put a martin house on top, or use part of the shed for a chicken coop or rabbit hutch. If you’re feeling even more adventurous, you could create a living roof of moss or succulent plants.
Of all the different simple shed designs, this one uses simple stacked lumber siding in which each length of board is laid edge on to the one below it and nailed in place. While this design can be quite strong, unless you seal the gaps between each board with some form of caulking, it might let the rains come in. Once your little girl grows out of it, you can turn it into a dog house, or add plexiglass windows and a door to turn it into a storage shed.
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