Galvanized steel stanchions, stainless steel wire, and a hardwood cap were used for the railing of this modern shed built by J. C. Stoneman Construction. Located in Port Townsend, Washington, the modern shed features a sliding glass door, clerestory windows, and a pitched roof that overhangs the porch and provides shade. The siding is made of Western red cedar.
In addition to common building materials that you’ll find at most home centers and lumberyards, we used some special products from Louisiana-Pacific (in-depth material details in project pdfs below) that you may have to order if you want to duplicate our pub shed exactly. The windows are shop built using plastic utility window sash that we found at a local home center. Search for “barn sash” online if you can’t find it locally. The swing-up bar door is site built. The entry door on the side is a standard prehung exterior door that’s readily available at most home centers (about $220). The materials for the pub shed cost us about $6,500.
Test-fit the pattern rafter and adjust its notches. When it fits accurately all along the beams, use it to mark and cut the remaining rafters. First, cut all the rafters to length. Then clamp together all the rafter stock, including the pattern rafter, edge up. Mark and cut all of the notches to match the pattern rafter. Use a chisel to finish each notch.
It’s unconventional, but building the roof upside down on the platform has advantages. First, you avoid a lot of ladder work. And second, you can nail the soffit material to the overhangs easily without having to work overhead and in cramped spaces. You do have to take a little extra care to make sure the framing is square and the perimeter 2x4s are perfectly straight before nailing on the soffit, though. Start by cutting out the rafters using the pattern in Figure D (in Additional Information below) as a guide.
For a seating area I cut 4 x 18 inch lengths of 3x3 post and I had some 12mm thick wood that I used for the seat but you could use ply board (I recommend 18mm for strength). Simply cut the ply to size then drive a screw through the ply board into the posts. Once made then use corner braces to secure in place to add that extra strength and make sure you test it out before you use it. If you are making a longer seating area then you may need more posts in the middle for support.
With a plastic shed base on the other hand, although the sandier elements of the ground are still washed away (remember this is considerably reduced if you use our recommended membrane at the time of installation), the interlocking function of the grids provides a constant level base. You should also remember that a plastic base will not be affected by the rain in the same way that wood or compacted soil is, which means your base remains solid all year around.
The completed base should now be level and square. Conduct a final check with a long straight-edged piece of timber to check if the base is level from each corner. Also, measure the diagonals to finally check that the base is square. Brush off any excess dry sand/cement mix which could hinder the levelling of the shed. The result is a smooth, solid and level base.
Have a particularly small outdoor garden area yet want to safely secure tools? Not a problem! Garden sheds and virtually come in all shapes and sizes. Deepening on the size of your particular garden, you may just need a smaller space to store important stuff in. In this garden shed idea, space is small enough to be intrusive into a yard space but effective enough to get the storage job done.
Our Free shed plans are aimed more at giving you an idea of what to expect with from the premium plan. For the advanced DIYer, the basic free plans may even be enough to build the full shed. But if you’re a beginner the basic free plan will only act as a guide. In order to get the full step-by-step instructions you would need to invest in one of our premium plans.